Brussels
The city that I grew up in, it was time that my teenage children really experience this vibrant city through the eyes of my childhood, my extended family, and also as the place where my husband and I met and fell in love.
A hidden gem that I view in many ways as a smaller Paris, the city is incredibly diverse and cosmopolitan. It feels accessible, cozy, and full of artistic accomplishment — both in architecture, art, and fashion. Many of you may know that the Antwerp Six came out of this country, giving us (among others) the dynamics of Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester etc.
A pleasantly walkable city — here are my favorite (and most nostalgic) things to do.
See.
The Atomium. Built in 1958 as part of the World’s fair, this futuristic architectural marvel was in its day very ahead of its time, marking what the future might look like. Built in the shape of an atom, it served as a signal to a post WWII world, that nuclear power could be used for good and not merely for destruction. Incredible views greet you from the top and each connecting stem of the atom houses an escalator ready to take you to another level. A restaurant in the top sphere takes you back to the 1960s, with a very groovy set up.
Grand Place. A large central square in the city center, this spot never ceases to amaze me. Filled with people and a strong café culture, it showcases the most beautiful historic buildings to reach the sky. Covered in gold they are representative of the various trade guilds that built the city.
Bruges. Remembered as part of our family’s day trips, this city remains one of the most idyllic I’ve ever been in. Picturesque history captured in time, it is beautifully preserved. This working city is a fantastic place to feel old Belgium and wander aimlessly through squares and churches, before ending at a café for drinks or lunch. Poules et Moule is a favorite spot for the most perfect (and typical) mussels and fries.
Eat. Drink.
Savage. A vegetarian restaurant with meat eater options, this beautiful menu serves up the chef’s selection only. With great care and detail, each ingredient is selected for a marvelous well-coursed dinner outdoors.
Cremerie de Linkebeek provides the best in class on fresh cheeses and meats. Head there to grab provisions for a dejeuner sur l’herbe of your own.
Chez Richard sits on the beautiful Sablon square as a drinks bar spilling onto the sidewalk. Friendly and lively, you’ll always find it full of a creative mix of people perched comfortably for the evening.
Shop.
Diito for fun home finds is a great place to start. Unusual color and pattern, mixed with quieter tones.
And though it has changed a lot, I still love wandering the Rue Antione Dansaert for unique and interesting finds. Here you’ll find a mix of higher end known European brands with a mix of local producers. An easy favorite for small production Belgian-made pieces is Rue Blanche.
For leather goods at the top of the Belgian luxury market, head to Delvaux. Making each piece by hand since 1829, the beauty and quality of this artisanal and storied brand, shows a classic emphasis on the most beautiful materials in the highest sense.
Art.
Part of the Boghossian Foundation, a visit to the Villa Empain is a very special experience. Housed in an extremely well-heeled Art Deco residence, this Foundation holds unique and contemporary exhibits, mostly showcasing the work of young artists. Currently on exhibit (2023) is the House of Dreamers featuring emerging artists with a strong imaginative and dreamy surrealist lean.
HIGHLIGHT
The small Brussels bedroom community of Tervuren was home to me for many years. Not having visited it in years, I was reminded this time just how magical of a place this little town is.
Walk through the village to the park gates and you’ll find the most lush and vibrant part of the Zonienwoud woods, with beautifully majestic paths, leading you to the beautiful newly renovated African History Museum, which houses a vast collection of tribal arts.
FUN FACT
Small though it is, Brussels seats both the European Union (EU) and NATO, and is a country of two official languages — since it is split geographically into the French side (Wallonia) and the Flemish side (Flanders). Though my father was born on the Flemish side, in the stunning Antwerp, I grew up mostly in French speaking Brussels. English is my first language (my parents were all things American when I was born), but Flemish and French remain my second and third languages.
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