Paris

Though Brussels is of course extremely precious to me, I never tire of the intimacy and vibrancy of the City of Lights: Paris. Yes, Paris is large and chaotic and diverse — but of all the big, metropolitan European cities, I find it has the most village-like feel with neighborhoods connecting you through a labyrinth of excitement.

Stay.

Avoid the tourist crowds and stay in the 11th arrondissement for the best in restaurants. The 11th is filled with neighborhood gems, busting at the seams with locals enjoying an evening with friends after work.

Eat. Drink.

Le Mary Celeste for its fantastic small and creative dishes — each with fresh flavors and surprising combinations, and Les Petits Nuages for hand-made ravioli and gyoza in the thinnest, most beautiful dough with fois gras.

Always fun to sit at the bar in the Georges V near the Champs Elysee in the colder months, but for the summer, I love the very local, very non fussy La Fée Verte, also in the 11th. Known as an absinthe bar, you’ll find staff that welcomes you into the neighborhood, as if it is your own. And as if it’s not enough to have such a welcoming drinks experience, just across the street you’ll find the award-winning local bakery of your dreams. Croissant et Spritz quell q’un?

Shop.

For high editorial concept stores, my friend @allison.crawford‘s recommendation of Lemaire in the Marais sits at the top for me, as does UPPER, wonderfully located on the île Saint-Louis, right in the middle of the Seine.

Art.

To me Paris is incomplete without a visit to the Fondation Louis Vuitton, amazingly situated in the Bois de Boulogne. Designed by the inimitable Frank Gehry, this remarkable space takes you several stories high, typically focused on one major exhibit. Currently on view (2023) is Warhol versus Basquiat — a wonderful capture of the 4 year collaboration of these two major 20th century artists.